Let me show you how to frame shed walls with the building process I have always used..
You can use the surface of your storage shed floor to build your front wall, back wall, and side walls.
I always found it easier to build my walls after first building the shed floor. This way you can build all your walls directly on the shed floor, one at a time.
Set them off to the side so you can build all of them. Then stand them up one at a time and nail or screw them down into place.
Nail gun (optional) This will make your shed building so much easier. Be careful with it though!
Drill - cordless or plug-in
Screwgun - cordless or plug-in
Assuming you have a set of plans ( Oh and guess what? I do sell shed plans here) that are showing the proper lengths to cut and the size of the vertical studs, like 2x4's (typical) or 2x6's, the first step measure and cut your top and bottom plates. For right now, if your plans call for 2 top plates, you will just cut the first top plate at this time.
The picture above shows the wall plates with stud location marks. The bottom plate shown is pressure-treated, but this is not necessary unless you are building on top of a concrete slab.
Typically shed wall studs are either 16" on center or 24" on center. If you plan on using just a single layer of siding such as a 4'x8' tongue and groove panel or a 4'x8' panel like LP smartside siding, you should go with 16" on center. It is my suggestion to always frame your shed walls at 16" on center. The cost difference is minimal when comparing going with 16" versus 24" stud spacing. For example, for a 16' long wall check out the picture below showing the different stud spacing for 16" on center vs. 24" on center spacing.
The difference in cost (using the Lowes in my home town) is $14.32. Not that big of a discrepancy!
Place your top and bottom wall plates together with the short narrow sides resting down on a flat surface such as your shed floor
Now you can mark off locations for your wall studs. If you are framing in for a door and window(s) you will also mark off those locations as well. Cut your wall studs and door studs, and studs for your window framing and lay them in between your top and bottom plates in their respectful locations and nail into place. Generally you would nail from the outside of the plate into the stud using 3" to 3 1/2" galvanized box nails. Use 2 nails per stud end.
For nailing wall studs together you would want to use a shorter framing nail such as a 10d nail as you really don't want the ends of your nails protruding out the adjacent side of the studs you are nailing together.
Sometimes you can add your siding to your framing before standing your wall up. Other instances of building your shed you may want to stand all your walls up first before adding siding.
The picture above shows LP Smartside siding being nailed onto the wall framing before standing the wall into place. Don't forget this one important point: make sure you extend the bottom of your siding down below the bottom plate enough so that the siding is down below your floor sheeting for protection against rain and melting snow.
Starting with whichever wall you framed up first, stand it up and nail into place using 16d framing nails. You will want to use 2 nails at each stud location and nail down through the bottom plate into the shed floor
If you have a concrete foundation, you obviously cannot nail your shed wall down into the concrete slab. For a complete guide on setting and anchoring shed walls down to concrete please have a look here.
Here's an example of a shed wall with the door components that have already been built and placed on the siding panels before standing the wall up.
It is a good idea to have a 2x4 already nailed onto your wall that you can use for nailing to your floor to keep your wall in place while you nail the bottom plate to the floor using galvanized 16d box nail. Nail by each wall stud into your floor joists making sure that your wall ends line up with the edges of your floor.
You can assemble your other remaining walls and nail into place in the same manner as you did the first wall. As you are placing adjacent walls into place, you should nail the corners together every 12" with 10d galvanized box nails. If you are using 16d nails with a framing nailer, shoot your nails at an angle so the nail end does not protrude through to the other side of your wall corners.
Using scrap 2x4s, temporarily brace up your walls good to your floor so that they are good and sturdy and will not move one way or the other.
With your exterior walls in place, nice and straight and plum, you will want to nail on the very top plate down on top of the top of the walls you just built and stood into place. This second top plate will overlap in the corners to make your walls nice, tight and sturdy.
Because of the weight of the roof it's always a great idea to have a double top plate. If your shed plans show only one top plate, and all of your roof trusses or rafters are directly over a stud location, then having just one top plate would be ok.
If you framed your shed walls but didn't add siding before standing them up now is the time to install your siding.
Remember these important points for shed siding:
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Are we having fun yet? I sure hope so.
Ok, on to the next step: How to build your storage shed doors
Do not purchase materials or attempt to build this shed project unless you have studied the information provided thoroughly, and have verified all dimensions and material requirements for yourself. Also verify that the plans conform to local building codes and practices. Although every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of the information and design, the user is ultimately responsible for the use of this information. All information provided is copyrighted and cannot be duplicated without the permission of Shedking.
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